Help re Infiray TH50 scope.

[Die Judicii]

Being "old school" and used to good quality manual scopes that are a breeze to zero, adjust, etc, I have run into a brick wall.
After making the initial purchase and finding that I don't have a snowflakes chance in hell of zeroing it,, I got a cluey bloke from my local GS to do the job.
As an aside,,,,,, I love the clarity of this scope but that's it.
After getting it zeroed, I checked the performance.
A three shot group,, almost clovering,, but, exactly 26 mm to the left.

With a normal adjusting winding scope that would be a cinch to correct.

But,,,,, according to the manual, that would involve a minimum of eight (8) very confusing steps, to just move the point of impact by 26mm.
Bearing in mind that I cannot memorize which button or rotary encoder to turn/push/hold for whatever seconds.
Meanwhile, if not done correctly it reverts back to the beginning every time, before you can get it right.
FFS,,,,,,,,,,,,,, who designs such abominations

Does anyone know of a simple and less involved way these contraptions can be adjusted 26mm to the right ?

[bladeracer]

Being "old school" and used to good quality manual scopes that are a breeze to zero, adjust, etc, I have run into a brick wall.
After making the initial purchase and finding that I don't have a snowflakes chance in hell of zeroing it,, I got a cluey bloke from my local GS to do the job.
As an aside,,,,,, I love the clarity of this scope but that's it.
After getting it zeroed, I checked the performance.
A three shot group,, almost clovering,, but, exactly 26 mm to the left.

With a normal adjusting winding scope that would be a cinch to correct.

But,,,,, according to the manual, that would involve a minimum of eight (8) very confusing steps, to just move the point of impact by 26mm.
Bearing in mind that I cannot memorize which button or rotary encoder to turn/push/hold for whatever seconds.
Meanwhile, if not done correctly it reverts back to the beginning every time, before you can get it right.
FFS,,,,,,,,,,,,,, who designs such abominations

Does anyone know of a simple and less involved way these contraptions can be adjusted 26mm to the right ?

I don't know about simpler but you could use an adjustable mount and zero the scope using that instead of the scope adjustment.
https://www.extravision.com.au/collections/rifle-scope-mounts/products/click-adjustable-mount-zeroing-block

[straightshooter]

Unfortunately you will have to RTFI.

[niteowl]

I will make a couple of points here and I apologize up front.
It is always risky to have someone zero a scope for someone else as seen here.
Secondly I will not rubbish other peoples choices, as it is not something one should ever do !
BUT, the brand we use, zeroing is a very simple job (Can't say here who the importer is. Though I wonder who that could be ??)
I admit that they are a bit more expensive, but as contractors (Since 1995) we believe this is essential. (At a measured 2 KM we can tell you if it is horses or cows on the distant hill).
NO, I AM NOT SUGGESTING WE SHOOT AT THIS DISTANCE.

Unfortunately can't help with your problem with your particular scope.

"staightshooter", the term used around here is RTFB not RTFI

I do hope I have not offended too many people here.

[jezzab]

Havent used one of those but they are usually pretty similar (my Pard's and Pulsar's are), to correct you would aim for the center of the target with the current crosshairs, there will be some "freeze" function at will lock the screen image once you press it. Once locked you will then use the knob or buttons to shift the cross hairs left/right/up/down to where the bullets impacted in your frozen image and save it. It should then be spot on or pretty close when you test fire again.

[Die Judicii]

Blade,,,,,,, Your worth your weight in gold. (todays prices)
I had heard of these but never bothered to look them up simply bcos up till now I had never needed such a thing, added to the fact that I
had forgotten they existed.

As you know, I have 99% Pulsar Thermal Clipons that are in turn all mounted on Zeiss scopes.
And no cheap ebay chinese gear.

So I have never had to be involved with these electronic gizmos,, and I'm too old to try and understand them.
(might be ok if I came out of the birth canal with a calculator and electronic scope in my hands)
Like all of the younger generations,,,,,,, but I wasn't.

The young fella that zeroed it for me did a great job, and got it within 26mm and I appreciated that.
He made it sound so simple to adjust that small amount,, but when reading the instructions regarding freeze screen, x and y coordinates, and JUST wind it across,,,,,,,, but to me it all confuses me, especially when the timer keeps putting the screen back to where you first started.

So, I will be chasing one of those mounts up tomorrow.

[Die Judicii]

I will make a couple of points here and I apologize up front.
It is always risky to have someone zero a scope for someone else as seen here.
Secondly I will not rubbish other peoples choices, as it is not something one should ever do !
BUT, the brand we use, zeroing is a very simple job (Can't say here who the importer is. Though I wonder who that could be ??)
I admit that they are a bit more expensive, but as contractors (Since 1995) we believe this is essential. (At a measured 2 KM we can tell you if it is horses or cows on the distant hill).
NO, I AM NOT SUGGESTING WE SHOOT AT THIS DISTANCE.

Unfortunately can't help with your problem with your particular scope.

"staightshooter", the term used around here is RTFB not RTFI

I do hope I have not offended too many people here.

Mate,,,,
I did know what you say about getting someone else to zero the thing,,,, but in a boat like mine it was a case of do that,, or sell the thing.

And,, no apology necessary (from my perspective) I welcome your input. PM coming your way.

[Die Judicii]

Havent used one of those but they are usually pretty similar (my Pard's and Pulsar's are), to correct you would aim for the center of the target with the current crosshairs, there will be some "freeze" function at will lock the screen image once you press it. Once locked you will then use the knob or buttons to shift the cross hairs left/right/up/down to where the bullets impacted in your frozen image and save it. It should then be spot on or pretty close when you test fire again.

I hear what your saying,, but remember how simple, basic, and reliable the old winding scope turrets were ?

[GQshayne]

I'll bet you thought about giving it a good whack!

[Die Judicii]

I'll bet you thought about giving it a good whack!

A bit like the old joke about some people being just like an old black and white TV set.

They need a good whack before they get the picture.