What am I doing wrong???

[tarnagulla]

I have been trying to reload for a .44M S&W 629, and all is good until the round is finished.

After resizing/priming - cases drop into cylinder, and drop back out unassisted when inverted. After absolutely minimal flaring, charging, seating Blackhawk 240gr projectile, and crimping, the rounds will drop into the chamber, but remain perhaps 0.5 - 0.75mm proud.
At best, the cylinder can be forced closed, ar worst, no way can it be closed.

I have tried all manner of adjustments to the crimping die, I have run them back through the sizing die (less deprimer of course) but no joy at all. I am using a Lee 4 - die set, and followed the instructions to the letter, before "experimenting" when all else failed...

I used to experience similar issues with .38Special until I found an old sizing die, which I installed at the fourth station in my Dillon 550B, which resulted in reloads as smooth as factory-new ammunition.

Anyone have any idea where I am going wrong with .44Magnum?

[Noisydad]

Maybe the bullet diameter could be swelling the case a little making it that smidge to tight to go all the way in. My .32-20 cases do that as the cast bullet is a bit to wide although they chamber and fire no problem and it's an accurate load so I haven't changed it.

[Baldrick314]

Never loaded 44 but have had the same issues with 357. Try flaring the case a little more before seating the projectile. Should solve the issue

[deye243]

is there any carbon build up in and just before the forcing cones

[bluerob]

Never loaded 44 but have had the same issues with 357. Try flaring the case a little more before seating the projectile. Should solve the issue

+ 1

[Hardcast]

Maybe the bullet diameter could be swelling the case a little making it that smidge to tight to go all the way in. My .32-20 cases do that as the cast bullet is a bit to wide although they chamber and fire no problem and it's an accurate load so I haven't changed it.

Yes, I would check the diameter of the projs, and the thickness of the brass. Sounds like it's a bit too tight.
You could borrow some other cast projs to try.
OR
Check that you're not seating them out too far.Possibly shorten the OAL.

[Hercl]

What's the word tarnagulla?

Swelling necks or OAL too long?

[tarnagulla]

All good now. Hardcast nailed it - OAL was way out. Seated them to the right depth, now smooth as glass...

[Hercl]

Cool mate.

[sally-bee]

Hi tarnagulla,

So what ended up leading you to get the OAL wrong? (asking so I can avoid making mistakes )

Bad info or you measured something wrong? Where did you go wrong?

[Gun Nut Gordo]

My mate was having an issue similar with his .357 but it turned out not to be the ammo at all, he cleaned the drum and the ammo dropped in. Apparently carbon had built up after firing

[bluerob]

My mate was having an issue similar with his .357 but it turned out not to be the ammo at all, he cleaned the drum and the ammo dropped in. Apparently carbon had built up after firing

Best stuff to clean the carbon/lead crud is the Lead Away (Kleenbore) or the Birchwood Casey stuff.

The Lead Away comes in A4 sized sheet (cut it to suit) or in patches. I buy from David Bailey Shooting supplies. Nope, not affiliated. Great service and pricing.

You can still use whatever your favourite brand to wet patch the barrel. Do that a few times till a patch comes out clean. Run a Lead Away patch through and you'll be surprised at what comes out. Use a cotton patch to finish off after the Lead Away stuff.

Cheers, Rob.

[tarnagulla]

Yes, I am aware of the need to keep chambers clean and shiny, and that LeadAway sounds handy!
As for getting the OAL wrong sally bee, well, that was just brain fade - and at my age I should have known better. For military rifle calibres, I keep a sample military round for the express purpose of setting/checking OAL, but gave it no thought for a revolver round. So long as it is shorter that the length of the cylinder, should be right? WRONG!
All calibres are now set to recommended OAL, wherever possible by reference to a suitable factory or issue round.

[roob]

Best stuff to clean the carbon/lead crud is the Lead Away (Kleenbore) or the Birchwood Casey stuff.

That Lead Away takes out it like it was acid or something.

Strong stuff.