MR. WINCHESTER wrote:Gwion wrote:From what i've seen, the checkering tools are effectively just tiny files but they come in sets with predetermined widths between lines and also max depth. Only risk i can see with the above suggestion of using a modified single file is that you may inadvertently get varying depths and uneven checks, or, run the risk of deleting a ridge all together by taking a groove too deep.
Ummm ..... yeah.
All very good reasons, for using the proper tools !
( that is: if one wants a 'proper job' )
Gwion wrote:Agreed... depends how fussy you are and if you value the resale return of your firearm.
Of course, would I use a file on an expensive or collectable firearm? hell no, I'd get a pro to do it but as a way to tart up a farm gun or old roughy as part of refinnishing it yes i would, and have
Here's a very rough Tikka LSA55 I bought for just $300 as a donor action for a build.



It had been sanded all over and refinnished years ago by the looks and a bit of stripping and sanding showed how much checkering was left, mostly full of polyeurathane or some such. I was planning on buying a 90deg single row checkering tool to clean out the lines but a mate suggested a needle file or riffler file so i heated a needle file and started one line at a time. it takes ages, as i said the lines were full of varnish but it came out much cleaner and although not perfect it improved the handeling and look of the gun out of sight. still need to fit a new recoil pad and grip cap
Chronos
